Tag Archives: game

Guinea Fowl and Prune Ballotine

Guinea Fowl and Prune Ballotine

I found my first grey hair this past week.  It was very traumatic.

have not received much sympathy.  My class, all being older than me, laughed at my distress and told me to suck it up or dye it out and just shut up.  My mother told me I was so funny and as I despaired to my father how my wasted and misspent youth had given up on me and was draining away now on a downhill slope to death he rolled his eyes and asked if he was due to hear melodramatic updates every day now?

Vinnie tried to make me believe I was deluded and these grey hairs I saw simply didn’t exist.  It was kind of him to try.  He deserved a nice dinner for that.

We’ve covered the further butchery required for ballotines/galantines in the past couple of weeks and knowing that I had a guinea fowl sitting pretty in the freezer, I wanted to get ahead on practice.  I have yet to make the perfect round in the middle, but I’m still happy with the results.  I suppose one could ask the butcher to bone out their entire bird, I haven’t dared ask personally simply because I know this is something that requires attention and is probably not the first thing a busy butcher wants to take a break from a queue of customers to do.

stuffed this ballotine with the dark meat and prunes, processed and sieved to make it finer, and a small addition of a few dried herbs and breadcrumbs.  It was then poached and the skin crisped in the pan for dinner.

Serves 3

Preparation Time: Anything from 10 minutes to 45 minutes to bone the bird depending on your experience, another 15 minutes to assemble and make the filling.

Cooking Time: 20 minutes poaching, ten minutes in a pan.

Ingredients:

  • 1 guinea fowl
  • 25g bread crumbs
  • 20g prunes
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried sage
  • 1 beaten egg

Recipe:

  1. Using a boning knife, bone out the guinea fowl.  I would not recommend doing this unless you do have a decent, sharp, appropriate knife.  Because I’m awful at giving this kind of direction in words, I’ve found a video to help you.  This video shows a chicken being boned, a guinea fowl is much the same process but be prepared for a longer, blade-like breastbone.  You can keep the carcass and the wing pinions for a stock and add port to the reduction for a lovely sauce.
  2. Gently peel the meat off the skin, seperating the white and the dark meat.  Place the skin, seasoned and stretched into a rectangle on a piece of clingfilm.
  3. Bash the breasts between greaseproof paper with a rolling pin until about 1/2 cm thick.  Lay them out to form a rectangle on the skin.  You can cut pieces off and place them elsewhere – the breasts do not need to stay intact but a firm rectangle must be made.
  4. To make the stuffing, remove obvious sinews from the dark meat and place in the food processor with the prunes.  Whiz up, adding the beaten egg slowly.  Do not draw this process out – once the meat warms up in the machine it starts to release proteins which makes it all very sticky.  Ideally keep the bowl and blade of the processor in the fridge beforehand.
  5. Place a fine sieve over a bowl and, one tablespoon at a time, push the mixture through it to make it as smooth as possible, discard anything that isn’t going through.  Mix the breadcrumbs and the herbs into the sieved mixture.  Spread or pipe this down the centre of the rectangle of white meat.  Season.
  6. Using the cling film to guide, roll up the guine fowl tightly.  Trim any great overlap – any overlap will not cook at the same rate as the rest of the ballotine.  Wrap the clingfilmed bird in foil and secure with string.  Heat up some simmering salted water and poach the bird for 20 minutes.
  7. You can leave to cool at this stage to heat through when ready to serve or leave to cool for about fifteen minutes and remove the cling film and foil, secure the balloting with string and heat up butter and oil in a pan.  Fry the ballotine to crisp up the skin and warm through.  It will not need a long rest afterwards seeing as it is already cooked, but do let sit for 5 minutes before slicing.

Muntjac Massoman

Muntjac Massoman

know, it’s Easter Weekend, we should be eating lamb and not curry but, eh, have you seen the weather?  Forget dreaming of a white Christmas, here is a bizarre reality of a white Easter.  The church on the High Street still carried out it’s yearly, pavement clogging, outside promenade performance of The Passion and the shirtless, shivering Jesus player couldn’t have looked more miserable or farther from Israel if he tried.  Pontius Pilate and Judas Iscariot made a swift and stealthy retreat to my partner’s coffee shop after their parts were played, drinking warm pots of tea and filling in Crossword puzzles as their co-actors struggled on in the sleet.  It was really quite unbearably awkward.

River Cottage reported to its Facebook followers of the birth of their first Spring Lambs a few weeks ago.  These poor blighters, usually photographed frolicking in luscious fields, were looking bewildered amongst a lot of frost.

It’s England, we still have to pretend things are normal and go about business as usual.  I bet people will start having picnics next week, regardless of rain, sleet and snow because it’s what they do, in April one is meant to have picnics.

I cannot bring myself to attempt a picnic yet and whilst we will be having the standard Easter Lamb tonight, yesterday just cried out for something warm and comforting.  I had a small shoulder of muntjac venison and an array of spices and decided they would be combined to form a curry.  Madhur Jaffrey’s Curry Bible is my go to resource for this sort of thing and whilst any type of venison is not really used in a great deal of traditional curries, I decided to go with the Massoman – a coconut based, coriander, cumin and lemongrass curry, stirred through with tamarind paste.  Muntjac is a much more delicate and slightly sweet venison than its robust cousins, Red and Roe Deer and, I thought, would be lost under anything bigger and spicier.  As it turns out, it was a good choice, warming the cockles on a, eh, cold Easter night.

Venison, as with all lean meat, should not be cut into standard large cubes for stewing and the similar – the lack of fat in it means that in dense pieces, the middle dries out as there is little fat or meltable connective tissue to melt into the meat.  Therefore cut into either small cubes or thin slices to cook with.

Adapted from Madhur Jaffrey’s Curry Bible

Serves 3-4

Preparation Time: 15 minutes to make the paste (+ a couple of hours to soak dried chillis), 15 minutes to assemble

Cooking Time: 1 hour

Ingredients:

For the curry:

  • 1 small shoulder cut of muntjac (about 1lb/500g), cut off the bone into small or thin pieces
  • 1 400ml can of coconut milk, left alone for at least 2 hours to separate
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1.5 tablespoons nam pla (fish sauce)
  • 1 teaspoon tamarind paste or lemon juice
  • 1 teaspoon palm or brown sugar
  • small potatoes
  • 5 tablespoons massoman curry paste (see below)

For the massoman curry paste (Makes about 10 tablespoons)

  • 7 dried, hot chillis (soaked in hot water for a couple hours0
  • 1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns
  • 1.2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
  • 1 inch piece of cinnamon
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemongrass, thinly sliced crossways
  • 5 large cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
  • 1 inch piece of ginger, peeled and chopped
  • 1/2 teaspoon shrimp paste or 3 chopped anchovy fillets from a can
  • 1/2 teaspoon turmeric

Recipe:

  1. To make the paste, put the peppercorns, cumin seeds, coriander seeds and cinnamon in a frying pan over medium heat until they start to release their aroma and go a shade darker,  allow to cool and grind as fine as possible.
  2. Put the chillies, their soaking liquid and ground spices in a blender with all other ingredients, added one by one in order, until a paste has formed.
  3. Spoon 4 tablespoons of the coconut cream that has settles on top to a pan with the bay leaf and the curry paste.  Stir and fry until the oil seperates and the paste is lightly browned.  Add the sliced muntjac and reduce the heat to low. Add the fish sauce, tamarind and palm sugar and the remaining coconut milk (and a little water if the meat is not covered.  Cover and leave to simmer for about 45 minutes to hour until the muntjac is cooked and soft.  Continue cooking for fifteen minutes uncovered to help the sauce thicken.
  4. Put the potatoes in a saucepan of cold, salted water and bring to the boil for fifteen minutes.  When cooked through, add the the curry and stir in before serving.

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