Only the second post on New Blog and so far both entries have been dishes that are a rolled up assortment of layers.  I don’t know whether that means I enjoy an impulsively neat nature or an easy eating life but Nouvelle Cuisine doesn’t look like it’s coming back any time soon so it’s all good.

The rotolo is simply pasta dough wrapped around a filling, cooked in simmering water, sliced and quickly grilled.  They haven’t quite got round to selling rotolo sheets in Sainsburys but, for those who have not made their own pasta before, don’t worry – once you’ve made it once or twice, it’s all very simple.  A simple ration of 1 egg to 100g of flour and a little olive oil.  You’re looking for a dough that is a little bit supple and soft but still holding its shape and firm.  As a classmate that will, for the sake of his future employ, remain nameless, pointed out in a low whisper in our pasta demonstration last term as examples of pasta dough were passed around ‘it’s all about boobs.  The dough should feel like a youthful boob, too much egg makes it an ageing boob and too little egg makes it a plastic boob’.  He was very pleased with himself for that analogy.  So, if you have had access to a variety of boob in your life, feel free to take note, the rest of us, I’m sure, can make do.

I was only introduced to the rotolo about two years ago and my happiness at it’s aesthetics and assembly was reinvigorated by a demonstration we had at Leiths by Ursula Ferrigno.  I tell you, I have never ever witnessed a person so full of happiness; she was so so full of enthusiasm and excitement for what she did in her life that even though Italian Food is not my natural avenue, I couldn’t help but get caught up in her sing-song joy for it all.  One of the dishes she demonstrated was a rotolo and I remembered how simply lovely and fun it had been to put together.

You can fill it with any number of fillings but for this recipe, I stuck to the always faithful mix of spinach, ricotta and sundried tomatoes.  But do feel free to jazz it up.

Serves 3-4

Preparation Time: 40 minutes for pasta and filling, 10 minutes for assembly

Cooking Time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

For the pasta:

• 1 egg (+ 1 egg yolk if needed)
• 75g white flour (Tipo 00 is the preferred pasta making flour but it isn’t a disaster if plain white is all you have)
• 25g semolina flour
• 1 tablespoon olive oil

For the filling:

• 250g baby spinach (if using ‘proper’ spinach, remove any thick stalks)
• 150g ricotta
• 1 garlic clove
• a pinch of nutmeg
• the zest of 1/2 lemon
• generous amounts of black pepper
• About 6-10 sundried tomatoes

For service:

• Parmesan 
• Olive oil
• Balsamic Vinegar

Recipe:

1. To make the pasta, either in a large bowl or on a large, clean counter, sift the flour and make a hole or well in the centre.  Crack in one egg and the olive oil beat and start bringing in the flour locally.  The mixture should come together in a tacky dough that is not cracked with dryness, nor is it sticky – at this point it should be slightly tacky and not flecked with flour.  If it is too dry, add more egg yolk (not oil!), if it is too wet, add flour a little at a time.  Do not season with salt – the seasoning of pasta dough is done through absorption while cooking.
2. Briefly knead the pasta dough together until it has lost its tackiness and is smooth and supple.  Only for a minute at most (it isn’t bread).  Wrap in cling film and leave to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.
3. In a frying pan heat a little butter and crush the garlic clove.  Gently fry off the garlic clove and add the spinach, tossing as it wilts.  When it is about 90% wilted,  take off the heat and drain well – squeeze all remaining liquid from it or it will make an overly damp filling and leak on your presentation plate.  Return to the pan and stir in the ricotta, nutmeg and lemon zest.  Season well with black pepper and a generous pinch of salt.  Cover and put in the fridge to cool.
4. When the pasta has rested, sprinkle semolina on your counter and start to gently roll it out.  It will need to be a rectangle shape about 10 inches by 7.  Since it is unlikely to be able to be controlled in a pasta machine, do this by hand.  Don’t worry, you’re not getting it uber thin – about 2mm will suffice.  The dough will be springy so have patience and turn often.
5. When it is the desired size, trim the sides to make the rectangle and trnasfer to a wet piece of baking paper. Spread the spinach and ricotta mixture on the inside leaving an inch around the outside.  Place a line of sundried tomatoes in the centre and gently roll it up, gently wetting and pressing the edges together  on the seam and ends with water to secure it.  Start to heat up a large saucepan or poaching pan with heavily salted water to a simmer.
6. Secure the rotolo with the baking paper wrapped around it and tied firmly, but not too tightly, in shape with string.  Place into the simmering water and put a plate or other heavy heatproof object on top to prevent it rising.  Cover and cook for 25 minutes.
7. Heat up the grill and gently unwrap the rotolo.  The pasta should be cooked and held steady on the outside.  Cut into 1.5-2 inch thick slices and place on a grill tray.  Place under the grill until the top crisps up a little and serve with grated parmesan, a dollop of olive oil and a nudge of balsamic vinegar.